Kyoto is a city surrounded by mountains and, for many of the people who reside there, the Kamo River that runs through it is perhaps more relevant to their daily lives than others might imagine.

The Kamo River in Kyoto runs for 31 kilometers (19 miles) along the eastern corridor of the city. Situated in a valley, the river flows from the northern to the southern ends of Kyoto, serving as a significant public and civic space enjoyed by many locals. In my opinion, its riverbanks are also one of the best places for leisurely walking in Kyoto.

Dating back over 1,200 years, the Kamo River initially served as the city’s water supply and was used for flood control. These functions continued for centuries, but today, the river has simply been integrated into the city’s natural environment.

One could say that this waterway is one of the most underrated elements of nature that Kyoto has to offer. And, to me, it feels as much like an extensive public park as it does a river.

Thus, at any given time of the day, you will find people of all ages sitting, picnicking, relaxing, running, cycling, walking, playing team sports, fishing, and even practicing musical instruments along the banks of this very important urban body of water.

Many of the visitors that go to Kyoto are not going there for the river though, but mainly to see the famous temples like Kinkaku-ji, shrines like Fushimi Inari, the Kyoto Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, the Sangano Bamboo Forest, the old Gion district, the Philosopher’s Path, and to visit the large, modern retail area centered around the old Nishiki Market.

Therefore, many visitors to Kyoto may never see this beautiful waterway if they have only a few days to cover all the places that they would like to visit in the city. Or, if they do see the river, they may only get a glimpse of it while they cross over one of its’ many bridges in a bus on the way to visit one of the historical temples nestled in the hills on the eastern side of the city.

But the river also has so much to offer to travelers to Kyoto who enjoy to be outdoors, surrounded by trees, birds, the sound of fresh, clean running water, and to be able to walk along pleasant winding paths that are well situated along the river’s edge.

There are actually two rivers running right through Kyoto. The main one is the Kamo River, which is the one I am discussing here. The Kamo comes all the way down from the mountains above Kyoto, and then there is the much smaller Takase River, which also flows north to south and is placed parallel, just 300 meters to the west of the Kamo River.

The Takase itself feeds off the Kamo and runs for only about 9 kilometers (about 5.5 miles) through the city center. It was historically more of a fresh water canal, which was constructed during the Edo period, and used for transportation, trade and commerce rather than as an area for public leisure. It now no longer serves a commercial purpose, but it is a charming, narrow little waterway with a stone bed and flanked on its sides by traditional old wooden buildings and restaurants. Part of it also passes through the old Gion district and provides a pleasant area to go for an early morning or late afternoon stroll.

The main Kamo River begins in the Kitayama Mountains, north of Kyoto and then flows southward through the Kyoto city center. Eventually it joins the Katsura River in the Fushimi area, before flowing into the Yodo River, and finally out into the ocean at Osaka Bay.

The Kamo River is designed with multiple foot and bicycle paths running parallel for nearly the entire distance of the river and on both sides of its east and west facing banks.

What I enjoy most is walking a few kilometers north along the river, starting at the bridge where Oike-dori Street intersects with the river. As I make my way upstream, I like to stop and listen to the sound of the water, particularly in areas with a strong current or where the river cascades down like a waterfall from the north.

As you walk along its paths, you’ll come across numerous other water features, aqueducts, small foot bridges and interestingly shaped stones and rock features that have been added into the river bed for greater aesthetics. Along the way you will also see ducks and gray herons thriving in and along its river banks. I even spotted a rare Giant Japanese Salamander resting underneath a stone as the fresh river water washed over her entire body.

You will also find plenty of benches all along the river and some are well placed underneath large trees where one can just sit and relax in the shade to the sights and sounds around you.

If you walk from south to north you will also notice various sections of the river where large stepping stones have been lodged permanently into low lying areas of the water so that people can walk across the river (at just above the water level) in order to get from one side to the other.

There are also a number of bridges that cross the river at street level, approximately one every half to one kilometer in the busier areas of the city, allowing cars, buses, motorcycles, bicycles, and pedestrians to cross from east to west and vice versa. These bridges also offer nice vantage points for people to stand upon and gaze out at unobstructed views up and down the river towards the north and south ends of Kyoto.

The Keihan Main Line train runs parallel to a portion of the Kamo River for approximately 7 km (4.5 miles). The line starts at Yodoyabashi Station in Osaka and ends at Demachiyanagi Station in Kyoto for a total distance of about 50 kilometers (31 miles) and stops at 46 different stations along the way. Thus, this lengthy train line allows people to take public transportation in from further points away from the Kyoto city center and then exit from underground stations at a few different key spots along the 7 km stretch where the Keihan Main Line attaches to the river.

In my opinion, the Sanjo underground station in Kyoto is a really good place for heading out from the train on foot and a great exit point from the train system if you want to take either the The Keihan Main Line or the Tozai subway line to an interesting starting point in the city to begin a walk along the river.

Usually my river walks are done in the afternoons. At that point, the west side of the river is shaded and the east side is in the sun. But as you can walk along either side of the river, I often walk north on the east side in the afternoon sun and then walk back on the west side in the sun-setting shade.

The west side is quieter and has a slightly wider path compared to the east side, which can also be noisier due to its proximity to a main road. But both sides are really nice to walk along and, as you go further north, the water takes on its own shape and form in between these east and west side foot paths. At various points the river also widens and then narrows again, thus providing many different landscapes and areas of natural beauty.

When I’m in Kyoto, and when the weather is nice, I try and walk an average of 8 to 10 kilometers per day with at least half of that distance along the river to get some exercise and enjoy the beautiful outdoor environs that the city has to offer. If you visit Kyoto, I suggest spending at least one afternoon walking a few kilometers along the Kamo River to experience some of its beauty.

One could start walking north from Sanjo Station and continue walking along the river until reaching Demachiyanagi Station. This is a distance of only around 2.5 kilometers on foot and then one can either walk back or take the Keihan Main Line train back to Sanjo station from Demachiyanagi Station (¥230/US$1.5). That would be 2 stops on the underground and takes only about 4 minutes on the Keihan local train. This route would give you a nice walk of about 5 kilometers in total (if you walk both ways and don’t take the train back) and allow you to see some of the most beautiful spots that the river has to offer.

Quick Notes:

If you plan to walk from Sanjo Station to Demachiyanagi Station, there are good public toilets on the east side of the river at the street corner by the bridge at the Marutamachi-dori Road / Kawabata-dori Road intersection.

If you want food or drinks to enjoy along the river, a convenient place to buy them is the 7-Eleven at the corner of Kasugakita Dori Road, adjacent to the east side of the river. This 7-Eleven is located at the intersection of Kasugakita-dori Road and Kawabata-dori Road, about 150 meters north and on the opposite side of Kasugakita-dori Road from the public restrooms mentioned above.

All Photos ©Marc Schultz 2024